Within are pictures and tips on replacing your power window motor. It involves drilling some small holes in the inner door panel to access and remove the window motor rivets. This procedure does not involve having to remove the regulator or regulator spring that many people find dangerous. Use any information provided at your own risk.

Caution: The panel is made of Sheet Molded Compound (SMC) that has fibers embedded in it. Consider protection (as you would for handling fiberglass) for your skin, eyes and lungs during drilling and handling. There can also be some sharp edges inside the door, so be careful.

The most reported symptom of the window motor dying is that the motor will stop when attempting to raise the window. After a minute or less and you try it again, it will go up some more and stop. The cycle repeats until you can get the window fully up. Usually the longer you wait between tries, the farther it will go up at a time. The motor has an internal electronic circuit breaker (thermal resistor) that will heat up and trip when the motor is overloaded (either by just being worn out or from trying to overcome mechanical drag). This causes it to have to "rest" before it will go up some more.

It is also a good idea to check that your switch connections are tight because that can add resistance to the circuit. Switches can fail too and are not that expensive at wholesale price from the dealer (~ $13 for the driver's side which includes both switches in one housing, less for the single passenger side). A common source of failure of the switch is not even electrical. The plastic switch button shell (the part you press on) will crack on the side and not allow the actual switch underneath to be depressed far enough to work. If the window will operate ok if you press really hard on the button, try replacing the switch.

As of 4/8/2002 window motors at most chain auto supply stores are in the $50-$80 price range and commonly have a lifetime warranty (ask before you buy). A GM motor is in the $80-$90 wholesale price range. GM parts usually have a 12 month warranty. Remember that the window motor must overcome any mechanical resistance in the window regulator mechanism (that scissors looking thing ;-) ), so it is a good idea to make sure the guides are clean and well lubricated (lithium or silicone grease will do fine).

If you want to buy GM parts, I recommend the following people/places to deal with:

Dal Slabaugh: Retired as of 12/1/2007

Jason Cromer: Sam Taylor Buick/Cadillac , Ft. Walton Beach, FL



This procedure can save you hundreds of dollars as opposed to taking you car to the dealer. A donate button is available above if you would like to show your appreciation in a monetary form. It will also help defer site maintenance costs.

As mentioned on page 56 of the May 2002 issue of GM High-Tech Performance Magazine and helping people on the internet since August, 1999!

click here to begin R&R walkthrough
START
1. Remove switch panel
~click to enlarge~ 2. Unplug switch panel
~click to enlarge~ 3. Remove lock knob and screws
~click to enlarge~ 4. Finish screw removal
~click to enlarge~
5. Remove door handle panel
~click to enlarge~ 6. Finish panel removal
~click to enlarge~ 7. Remove cover
~click to enlarge~ 8. Remove door panel
~click to enlarge~ 9. Finish door panel removal
~click to enlarge~
10. Internal door hardware
~click to enlarge~ 11. Motor close-up
~click to enlarge~ 12. Unplug power connector
~click to enlarge~ 13. Upper rivet location
~click to enlarge~ 14. Middle rivet location
~click to enlarge~
15. Motor mounting locations
~click to enlarge~ 16. Window support
~click to enlarge~ 17. Drill out rivets
~click to enlarge~ 18. New motor
~click to enlarge~ 19. Attach new motor
~click to enlarge~



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